The absolute most important time in the Force Fetching process is in the first two weeks and on the table. Many rush to get on the ground and make retrieves. This is a mistake. A deep-seated and complete understanding by the dog evidenced by compliance is the goal.
The FF does a number of things for us as trainers. If done properly it FORCES the trainer to be consistent. It also forces the trainer to control the situation. To not, have control of this, or any other training situation, is to allow the dog to take the CEO position.
To start with, a dog needs to understand that the word, “fetch” means that he/she must have something in their mouth. In my opinion, a gloved hand accomplishes this better than any other item. Your gloved hand is sensitive both to the pressure that you are applying to the dog and to the pressure that the dog is applying to your hand. Your gloved hand is also much easier for you to keep in the dogs mouth than a separate object that is often hard (causing pain while the dog is holding an object that we are trying to praise him for) and awkward to use.
No ear pressure is needed for the first phase. Simply place your gloved hand in the dog’s mouth palm down and hold the dog’s collar in the other hand. Now, you are in control! During this time, the dog will resist and try to spit out or push your hand out of its mouth, but you are in control. Let the dog learn that no matter what he/she must keep the object in its mouth until given the release. The release is quite simple, when the dog has relaxed, and is no longer resisting push your gloved hand to the rear of the mouth causing a gag reflex while at the same time giving your release command.
This is where you establish that you are in fact CEO. Do not skimp or wimp out on this part. If your dog does not resist then you took the hand out too soon. All dogs will resist at some point and it is your responsibility to hold out and work them through it.
Once the dog is honestly accepting of the gloved hand, it is time to make the dog reach for the GH. This is where the ear pressure is introduced. Notice that this is the second step not the first. The dog already understands that he/she must have something in its mouth so as in any other stressful situation if you have had training you revert to it. So, now as we have the dog on the table, one hand in the dogs collar with the thumb and forefinger available to pinch the dog’s ear. A note here about pressure, only use the minimum amount necessary, if you start out with a tremendous amount of pressure then you have nowhere to go. As you apply the pressure, have your GH up against the dog’s lips so that the instant he/she opens its mouth due to the pressure the GH immediately slides in and the pressure is instantaneously released. If executed properly the dog quickly learns that the GH in the mouth takes away the pressure. Now think about it, if you were the dog and were in a controlled situation, had been shown in small incremental steps a way to overcome the pressure and eventually be praised for doing so what would you do?
Now on the other hand, if someone came at you with a hard object that is painfully forced into your mouth and sometimes you have to hold it, for some reason, and sometimes you can spit it out what would you learn from this? The person working with you is red faced and acting different when this object is brought out. After a day or two on that rickety table the frustrated trainer puts you on the ground and turns you loose, hmmmmm, those butterflies look like a lot more fun than this.
The slower you precede the quicker the dog’s uptake of information. Once the dog reaches for the GH it is time to introduce new objects. Do not be lulled into letting a dog only reach and hold for objects that it likes. Now is the time to introduce objects that are hard, soft, round, square, heavy, light… you get the idea. To do this later is a disservice to the dog. This should be done on the table, as should any new object, where you are in complete control of the situation. It is also at this point that the dog should be walked back and forth on the table and if successful off of and back onto the table. Once the dog is reaching and honestly holding all objects it is time to increase the distance for the retrieve. By holding the collar and always at the ready to instantly apply pressure at the first sign of non-compliance, we at first move the object so that the dog only has to take 1 step. From our point of view it seems simple, just take a step, but, from the dog’s point of view you have always held the object so that they only had to reach out for the object, now, you are changing the situation. Some dogs may take the step with no problem others may not, but remember, you have physical control over the dog, use it to pull the dog toward the object. At first, give the dog a moment to absorb the new situation but, once you are convinced that the dog understands what you want and is being non-compliant, apply the pressure. At this point, you will begin to see Oscar winning performances.
As an example, at a training day last year a gentleman was working with his dog on the table. The trainer was facing the crowd as he worked. While working, the dog dropped the dummy and the handler immediately applied the pressure resulting in the most gut wrenching, mournful wail you’ve ever heard. The handler was embarrassed, worried that the crowd would think that he was brutal, all the while, the dog is facing away from his owner and watching with intensity a pair of butterflies. As we began to laugh the owner asked, what was so funny? When we explained to him that the dog was putting on quite a performance but was indeed not motivated by the pressure, the owner then increased the pressure and received immediate compliance.
As you gradually increase the distance and eventually move to the ground always keep control and apply corrections immediately when warranted. Again, don’t wimp out on this. Once a dog understands the process you should never pick up an object for them, if you do, you just got a demotion!
If you take the time to work with a dog to a point of complete understanding before moving on to the next step you and you dog will be quite a team.
Always look at what you are doing through the dog’s eyes!
There is no way to cover all aspects of the FF in anything short of a novel. The above are some of the solutions to some of the most often repeated problems. There is no short cut – no electronic device – that can take the place of spending time with your dog and understanding how a dog learns.
I hope that this has been helpful.
Forrest